Ephesus

Ephesus is about a two hour coach trip from Bodrum.

    The sages prophesied that a wild boar and a fish would lead them to the site of the new settlement. One day, Androklos, himself a new migrant from Greece, was cooking fish on an open fire, when a fish flew from the pan into the nearby bushes. Sparks from the fire also ignited the bushes, and as they flared up, a wild boar ran out of the bushes to escape from the flames. Androklos pursued and killed the boar. Then recalling the words of the wise men, he built his city on this site, which is at a place about 1200 metres west of the Artemision, where the original city of Ephesus was founded. The cities of lonia were later joined together in a federation entitled the Ionian confederacy. Androklos, the city's first king, died in battle with the Carians, and the Ephesians erected a memorial to their first monarch. In the 7th century B.C, Ephesus was invaded by the Cimmerians, who razed the city to the ground, and burnt what they could, including the temple of Artemis. After this, Ephesus was ruled by a series of tyrants.

   Throughout its later history, consequent to this early setback, Ephesus seemed protected from harm by the gods, and prospered either through chance or through the politics of its citizens. In the 6th century B.C, the Artemis temple was restored by the Lydian King, Croesus, who resettled the inhabitants of around the temple. But when Croesus was defeated in battle with the Persians Ephesus fell under Persian rule, along with the other cities of lonia. One of the most important features of the city was that it was an important port which served to link Sardis to Susa. The Ephesians used this factor to their own advantage in many ways. Miletus, for example, had been destroyed and burnt down during the Ionian invasion, although it had been a trade rival of Ephesus. By deciding not to support the Milesians, they both strengthened their own position, and improved trade opportunities.

   Alexander the Great showed a great interest in this city as he passed through Anatolia, largely because of the significance he accorded to the temple of Artemis. After Alexander, a similar interest was shown by his commander Lysimachos, who had the city's harbour, which had already begun to silt up at that time, dredged of river silt. Thanks to his efforts, the city was able to carry on as a trading centre for some time. Lysimachos also helped to build a new Ephesus as a fortified town between Mt. Pion and Mt. Koressos. These fortifications had walls 10 metres high and covered an area 9 kms. in length. The city was further expanded by migrants who moved there from Lebedos and Colophon. It was during this period that Ephesus was adorned with a theatre, a staqium and a gymnasium.

   In 88 B.C., the Ephesians allied with Mithridates, the ruler of Pontus against the Romans, and succeeded in killing thousands of Roman troops, but later began to realise the extent of the Roman strength and changed sides. This made them not only an ally of Rome, but also caused Rome to appoint Ephesus as the capital of the Asian province. Until the 1st century AD., the Ephesians enjoyed generally good relations with neighbouring states and with Rome, due to successful diplomacy. However, this did not protect them from the force of an earthquake which hit the city in 17 AD, and destroyed it completely. During the reign of the emperor Tiberius, the city was reconstructed and enlarged. Later, it was adorned with shrines and other buildings during the reign of Hadrian. The new city bore the definite seal of Roman architecture, in place of the Hellenistic city. It retained its political and mercantile supremacy during this period, and began to have religious significance during the Christian era, as it was said to have been the place of residence chosen by the mother of Christ after his crucifixion. However, the harbour began to silt up once again, and it gradually declined as a trading centre. Completely blocked with silt, the city became uninhabitable, and during the reign of the Emperor Justinian (527 -564 AD.) the inhabitants moved to the hills of Ayasoluk, where the same emperor built the basilica of St. John. The new settlement, which had been fortified, fell to the Turks in 1090.

   Now let us visit the Museum of Ephesus to look at the statue of Artemis Ephesia, the altar of the Temple of Domitian, the Socrates frescos and the Theodosian reliefs from the temple of Hadrian. After studying these beautiful artefacts, we may move on to the basilica of St. John on the slopes of Ayasoluk. This magnificent basilica was built during the 6th century AD. by the emperor Justinian, and dedicated to St John. The entrance to the basilica was on the western façade, and the plan of the church was cruciform. The narthex was covered with a single cupola, and the church proper with six domes supported on columns. Under the central dome was situated the tomb of St John.

   On the eastern end of the church were bays arranged in a semi-circle, used by the priests during ceremonies. The floors are mosaic, and to the north of the tomb are frescos on which are depicted several of the saints. In the centre is the figure of Christ, and to his left is that of St John and a priest The basilica has been restored several times, and on the capitals of several of the columns be seen the monograms of the Emperor Justinian and the empress Theodora. In 1869, an Englishman named Wood discovered the site of the Artemision. Excavations were carried out after this in 1904 by another Englishman named Hogarth. In 1895 the temple was first excavated by an Austrian team, and it is Austrians who are presently engaged in excavational work around the site

 AGORA;

   The broad area in front of the Theatre was the Commercial Agora of Ephesus. Completely surrounded by columns, this Agora contained three entrances, one from the Celsus Library, one from the front of the Theatre, and one from the Harbour. In the form of a square 110 metres on a side, the north side of the Agora is left open, while the remaining three sides are surrounded by a portico which contained shops. The eastern and southern sides of the Agora were two-storied, the second storey of the eastern side being constructed in the form of an enclosed Doric stoa.
   Originally built in the Hellenistic Period, the Agora was reconstructed in the 3rd century during the reign of Caracalla (211-217 A.D.). At the centre of the Agora was a sundial and a water-clock. The centre of the square was faced in marble and contained statues of the philosophers, statesmen, and of scholars.

 ARCADIAN STREET

   This street extending from the baths to the Theatre is called the Arcadian Street. Originally built in the late Hellenistic Period, the street was restored during the reign of the Emperor Arcadius (395-408 AD.), from whom it takes its present name. There were galleries and shops all along either side of the street, which is 530 metres long and 11 metres wide. In the centre section is a structure containing four high columns, an element of decoration which was constructed in the 6th century AD. Along either side were gates in the form of monumental arches. Since this street extended to the harbour, it was also referred to as "Harbour Street

 

TEMPLE OF ARTEMIS   To the right of the road leading to Kusadasi can be seen the ruins of the Temple of Artemis (Diana), one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Artemis, the virgin goddess of nature, and protectress of women in childbirth is mentioned in the Iliad with the phrase: Praise be to Artemis! She, who would water her horses at the reed-filled Meles river, then pass speedily through Smyrna on her golden chariot towards the vineyards of Coloros."
		The mention of Smyrna in this description would suggest that the goddess Artemis is of Anatolian origin. At another point in his Iliad, Homer gives the birthplace of Artemis as Ortygie. Ortygie" means quail in ancient Greek, and might also have been related to the Mount Nightingale (Bülbüldag) which was the site of the original city of Ephesus.
Furthermore, the Ephesians at one point had a resolution passed in the Roman senate stating that their place of origin was Ortygie, and Artemis their patron goddess. It is perhaps for this reason that the Ephesians erected such a magnificent temple to this goddess. Artemis is not, in fact, a word of Greek origin, but a derivative of "artems", meaning "untouched", or 'unspoiled' in an ancient local tongue.   In Ephesus, Artemis was considered as one and the same as Cybele, the goddess from whom the land of Anatolia is said to have been born. She is depicted as a multi breasted figure with many facets, and bears the model of a temple on her head, in the form of a crown. This triple-storeyed crown indicates that she is the protector of cities, while the crescent on her forehead indicates that she is the moon goddess. The breasts, at the same time, link her to the fertility cult. Artemis also bore the symbol of the bee, the emblem of Ephesus, which indicates that she is a unique product of Anatolian mythology. The ruined Artemision contained a total of 127 columns, the 36 façade columns being decorated with reliefs. It was 115 metres long, 55 metres wide and 18 metres high.    The earliest traces of the Artemision building date to the 7th century B.C. The original temple was destroyed by the Cimmerians, and was re-built during the 6th century B.C Destroyed once more during the reign of the mad king Herostratos in the year 356 B.C, Ephesus began to rebuild its cult centre on an even grander scale after that date. Alexander passed through Ephesus at about that time and learning that the temple had been destroyed and burnt down on his birthday, he expressed the Desire to assist with its re-construction.    He wished, the new temple to be dedicated to him. But the Ephesians could not assent to this and undertook the reconstruction of the temple without his aid. The new temple of Artemis measured 105 metres by 55 metres, and was 25 metres in height, covering an area 6000 square metres in all. Alexander extended the temenos to include an inhabitated area around the temple as part of the sacred compound. This sacred area was preserved through the rule of several different kings and governors, was expanded and finally abolished by the emperor Augustus. In 263 AD., the temple was sacked and destroyed during the invasion of the Goths.    CELSUS LIBRARY    One of the finest structures in Ephesus, the Celsus Library has recently been restored. Raised on a high plinth, the building is approached via a broad flight of steps.    It was built by the Consul Gaius Julius Aquila in 135 AD. as a heroon in honour of his father, Celsus Polemaeanus, the governor of Asia Minor. The façade is highly ornamented on two levels, and there are three main portals. Over the portals were columns and statues arranged in niches. These statues were female figures representing the virtues wisdom, fate and intellegence. Niches on the interior of the building were designeo to hold books. The tomb of Celsus was placed in a crypt below the central large niche.    According to the inscription on the architrave of the building, its patron, C.Aquila, died before it was completed, and the construction was carried on by his heirs. Aquila left 25 thousand dinar for the acquisition of books for the library. EPHESUS THEATRE    This theatre, which had a seating capacity of 25,000 was first constructed during the Hellenistic period, although the present structure dates from the 1-2nd centuries AD. The Roman Theatre was begun during the reign of Claudius (34-41 A.D.), and it took 60 years to build. The second and third storeys of the skene (25x40 m) were constructed during the reigns of the emperors Nero (54-68 A.D.) and Septimus Severus ( 193-211 AD.). Only parts of the skene now date from the Hellenistic period. The Theatre has three cavea, each 22 rows, to which access was obtained via flights of steps between the cavea. The skene is 18 m. in height and the inner façade was ornamented with reliefs, columns, blind niches, windows and decorated with statues on three levels. The semicircular orchestra, surrounded by a channel, fronted a second skene supported on columns, 2.70 metres in height, which was approached by flights of steps. This section of the skene was used during the Roman period.
FOUNTAIN OF THE LEOCANIUS BASSUS    On the southwest corner of the State Agora we find the remains of a fountain. According to an inscription which was turned up during the course of excavation, construction of this fountain was ordered by Gaius Laecanius Bassus in 80 AD. The facade of this fountain constructed by Bassus, one of the wealthy man of Ephesus, was richly decorated,and consisted of two storeys which faced the street. The statues of Tritons and Muses, which were found at the fountain, are now on display at the Ephesus Museum. Because of the enormous size of the fountain it has been referred to as the "Water Palace". This fountain is connected to another fountain which is located just opposite it to the west of the State Agora, and also at the same time to a storage cistern. The main section consists of a body in the form of a semicirle and was built in the 2nd century AD.    The fountain underwent repairs in the reign of Constans and Constantius II (337-350) when the present wings were added. In inscriptions, this structure is referred to as the Nymphaion. It is the terminal point of the Aqueduct of Sextilius Pollio, which was built during the reign of Augustus between 7 -15 AD. The aqueduct was 3.5 kilometers long, and its remains may still be seen along the Selçuk-Aydýn highway. There was a cistern in the upper part of the fountain, and the surroundings of the structure were decorated with statues of the Emperor. CHURCH OF SAINT JOHN    St. John lived here with the Virgin Mary after being cast out of Jerusalem in 37-42 A.D. according to legend, and it is thought to be here that St.John wrote his gospel, and was buried in the church bearing his name in accordance with his dying wishes. A wooden basilica was first constructed on the site, above his grave, in the 4th century A.D., which was replaced in the 5th century by the present church, built during the reign of the Byzantine emperor, Justinian (577-565 A.D.).    During the 7th and 8th centuries, Ephesus was under constant siege by the Arabs, when the church was surrounded by a wall, which varied in structure over the years, but possessed 20 towers and three gates. The grand portal is the gate now used by visitors. The two other gates are to the east and west. The walls were built with stones taken from the Gymnasium of Ephesus, as if in revenge for the Christians thrown to the lions in that stadium during the first years of Christianity. The Church is entered via the main portal dating to the 6th century, which consists of an arched entrance flanked by two towers, leading to a small atrium where one may see inscriptions related to the Church, which were uncovered there during excavations. This atrium, which measures 34x47 m. is on the western front, and consists of a central court surrounded by an arched portico with a balustraded gallery to "the exterior. A number of amphora dating from various periods are to be seen in the centre of the court. A three celled cistern is buried below the western portal, and covered with a vault. This is buttressed with flanking walls to compensate for the curve of the site.    Between the atrium and the nave of the church is a long narrow narthex. Massive lentils of dressed marble frame the three doors leading to the atrium and into the nave from the narthex. A wall and a number of portals were added between the atrium and the narthex at a later date, to create an exonarthex. Five cupola surmount the narthex itself. The main church is cruciform in plan, a classic plan with three naves, and a superstructure of six, large domes over the main nave, with vaulted flanking naves. The domes were originally supported by marble and brickbond piers, still partially in situ, with a row of blue-veined marble columns lining the Church between the naves. The monograms of Theodora, wife of Justinian, are engraved on these columns, which enables us to date the structure. The above mentioned rows of Columns are joined by a series of arches which in turn support a second row of arches at gallery level. The mausoleum chamber is situated before the apse in the central nave, and is marked out by being raised from the rest of the nave, with two steps between.    A chapel, originally part of the treasury in the court, was converted for devotional use in the 10th century. The frescos of St. John, Christ and other sacred figures are contained in the apse. The treasury is reached via a gate immediately before it. This is a centrally-planned chamber, 6.30 m. in diameter, fronted by an absidal vaulted hall and flanked by a chapel. The main chamber is sub-divided by a cruciform plan, into a series of cells, each containing vaulted niches. It is a two-course building surmounted originally by a dome, now in ruins. The baptistery is reached via a portal letting into the forehall of the treasury. It is connected to the Church via a long narrow corridor running parallel to the northern nave. The baptismal pool dates to the 6th century, and was originally a tomb.    The plan of the Baptistery is somewhat complex. The main chamber is octagonal in plan, and is framed by a narrow corridor and flanked on two sides by absidal-planned halls. The main baptistery is paved with marble, with the pool in the centre. The baptistery predates the Justinian church, being built in the 5th century.   FOUNTAIN OF TRAJAN    Next to the Hadrian temple, also on the Street of the Curettes stands this fountain, built in honour of the Emperor T rajan (98-117 AD.). The pool was 20 m. long and 10 m. wide. It has been partially restored. Originally the pool was flanked by columns and statuary. The statues are now on display in the Ephesus Museum. The façade overlooking the pool contained a colossal statue of T rajan in the centre, the feet of which remain in situ. Parts of the torso were also found during excavation. This is one of he finest monuments in Ephesus. GATE OF MOZAEUS AND MITHRIDATES The most magnificent of the three entrances to the Agora was the gate alongside the Celsus Library which was dedicated to Augustus and his family by slaves, Mazaeus and Mithridates. The gate was constructed in 40 A.D. The dedicatory inscription in Latin belonging to the work is visible on one side, and was made in inlaid letters of bronze. The two prisoners originally were employed by Augustus and later by his son in law Agrippa. Subsequently they were manumitted and settled in Ephesus. After making their fortunes they had this gate constructed and dedicated in honour of their former master. Built in the form of a ceremonial arch, the gate consists of three sections.    The second magnificent gate of the Agora was this one, located on the west, The front was richly decorated with Ionian columns, and the gate, which was somewhat high, was reached by a stairway. An inscription found near the gate reads "Whoever urinates here will be punished". Chronology { BC } 11th cent. Founded in 11th cent. according to tradition by a son of Codrus [Androklos]. 1087 Ephesus was first settled by Greeks, according to tradition. 7th cent. In first half of the 7th century the Cimmerians seized Ephesus. 540 Cyrus' general Harpagus captures Ephesus. 500 All of Ionia gradually decayed after Persia conquered Lydia. 415 Ephesus associated itself with Sparta. 400 Temple was built to Artemis of the Ephesians, called the Artemision. 4th cent. For serious study one had to go to the university towns; Ephesus for medicine. 356 Artemision was burnt down again; deliberate arson by Herostratus. 334 Alexander takes Ephesus. 294 Ephesus enlarged by Lysimachus. 246 Belevi Mausoleum; Seleucid King Antiochus II Theos, died at Ephesus. 2nd cent. Ports such as Ephesus came to life; Ephesus shipped out fine Asia Minor wines. 190 Rome blockading the harbor of Ephesus under Lucius Aemilius Regillus [an idiot]. 188 In Seleucid hands. 133 Prosperity began under Roman rule. 84 Survived a sack by Sulla. 57 Ptolemy XII in Ephesus waiting to be restored to Egyptian throne by Rome. 41 From Ephesus Antony proceeded to Tarsus. Cleopatra meets him there. 32 Antony and Cleopatra were at Ephesus, preparing for war. 6 Became the capital of the Roman province of Asia. CE 52 Second missionary journey; Paul's ship stops at Ephesus; he was not allowed to visit. 53-57 The third missionary journey of Paul. 54-68 The stadium was erected in the reign of Emperor Nero. 81-97 Harbor Gymnasium and Bath neared completion in the reign of Emperor Domitian. 81-96 Temple of Domitian dedicated to the monstrous tyrant Domitian. 98-117 Theatre building was not completed until Trajan's time. 110 Celsus Library was erected. 117-138 Temple of Hadrian was dedicated to the Emperor Hadrian. 150 Vedius Gymnasim erected. Ephesus was most properous commerial centre of that time. c.350 Ephesus entered into a second golden age which continued until c.527. 431 Shenute... accompanied Cyril to the first Council at Ephesus. 431 Councils at Ephesus in 431 & 449 CE; Egyptian viewpoint on Monophysitism accepted. ? At 3rd Council, monophysitism declared a heresy; Dioscorus was sent into exile.